The rest of the country cooks one feast on this scale a year. An Orthodox family cooks it every Friday night, and often again on Shabbos day. So we took kosher shelf prices from three cities and built the menu out, ingredient by ingredient.
Ask anyone to picture their most lavish, most labor-intensive meal of the year and they'll describe Thanksgiving: the big roast, the six sides, the pies, the house full of people.
Now do that every single week. Dinner on Friday night, lunch on Shabbos day, and a second family at the table while you're at it. That is an ordinary week in an observant home, and it has a price.
Here is what the receipts say.
What does the biggest meal in the American year actually cost to put on?
Every November the American Farm Bureau sends volunteers into grocery stores to price the same shopping list: turkey, stuffing, sweet potatoes, rolls, cranberries, pumpkin pie, enough for ten people. The number below is that list divided by ten.
A full, festive, sit-down meal for about five and a half dollars a head. Hold that number. Everything that follows is measured against it.
How much more does the same shopping list cost when every item on it has to be kosher?
Before a single guest arrives, supervision, kosher slaughter and smaller supply chains push ordinary staples above the national price. We averaged shelf prices at kosher stores in New York, Los Angeles and Denver, and set each one next to the national average for the same item.
Each row below is one grocery item. The gold bar is the kosher price. Under it, starting from the same left edge, is a grey bar for the national price, and because the kosher price is higher on every single row the gold ends up covering the grey completely. All eight rows share one scale, so the longest bar is simply the most expensive thing on the list. The number at the right of each row is the multiple: how many times the national price a kosher shopper pays.
Watch the grey bars slide out first, then the gold ones run straight past them.
Start at the top row, chicken cutlets: $9.49 against a national $4.17, a multiple of 2.3×. Now find flour, the third row, where nothing is slaughtered and nothing is perishable: $1.23 against $0.54, the same 2.3×. The longest bar on the chart, salmon at $15.06, carries the gentlest multiple on the board, 1.4×, which it shares with ground beef. Across the basket the kosher shopper pays about 1.9× the national price, and roughly double for the proteins that anchor a Shabbos meal.
Run those prices through a real menu. What does one Friday night dinner come to?
A single item on a shelf is not a meal. So we built one: a Thanksgiving-caliber dinner for a family of six, with every ingredient bought at the kosher price on the chart above.
Each tile below is one course. Under the picture is the name of the course and what its ingredients cost, and the tiles run in the order the food reaches the table, from the wine and challah at the start to dessert at the end. The number underneath the six is what they add up to.
Look at how much of the evening the mains take on their own.
The mains tile reads $53.75, close to a third of the night by itself. Challah and wine come next at $40.00, then the fish course at $22.59, the sides at $19.19, the soup at $18.05 and dessert at $17.34. Six tiles, $170.92, and nobody has knocked on the door yet.
Set next to the Thanksgiving plate, how far apart are the two numbers?
Divide the $170.92 by the six people eating it and you have a figure that can sit beside the Farm Bureau's.
Two columns below, drawn to one scale. The grey column on the left is one person's share of the national Thanksgiving dinner. The gold column on the right is one seat at the Shabbos dinner we just built. Taller means more money per head, and the number printed at the top of each column is that column's cost.
Look at how little of the gold column the grey one reaches.
The grey column tops out at $5.52. The gold column runs to $28.49, a little over five times as high. The country pays the grey number once in November. An observant family pays the gold one on Friday, and again next Friday.
And when a second family sits down, does the cost per person come down with it?
Shabbos is a standing invitation. Host a second family and you are cooking for twelve: more brisket, more salmon, more challah. There is no bulk deal on kosher meat. You buy more of the expensive things.
The number below is the same six-course dinner, scaled to twelve seats.
Split $316.71 twelve ways and the answer is $26.39 a head, against $28.49 when it was only the family. That is the whole discount for doubling the table: about two dollars a person.
And most weeks it does not stop at dinner. Shabbos lunch, meaning cholent, a deli spread, fish, salads and cake, is its own full production, about $200 more.
Add up a year of open doors. What is the bill?
Take a family that hosts on half the year's Shabbatot, 26 weeks. Dinner on every one of them, lunch on half of those.
Each of the 26 squares below is one hosted Shabbos, and they light up gold as the year fills in. Thirteen of the squares carry a green band across the bottom: those are the weeks the family hosted lunch as well as dinner. The bar underneath splits the year's food bill into the same two parts, gold for the dinners and green for the lunches, and the full width of the bar is the whole year.
Notice how little of that bar the lunches take.
The gold stretch of the bar is $8,234, the 26 dinners. The green tail is $2,604, the 13 lunches. Roughly three quarters of the year's hosting bill lands on Friday night.
Read the three cards left to right. The first, $5,850, is those same 26 weekends cooked for six instead of twelve. The middle card is what sits between that and the $10,839 above it: about $5,000 a year buying food for other people's children. The card on the right, $21,678, is the family that never takes a Shabbos off.
So: what does it cost to set a Shabbos table every week, and to fill it with guests?
About $10,839 a year in food, for a family of six that hosts half the year's Shabbatot, of which roughly $5,000 is the guests. Per seat it is $28.49 on Friday night, five times the $5.52 the rest of the country spends on its one big meal of the year, and the reason is not extravagance. It is that a kosher shopping basket runs about 1.9 times the national price before anything is cooked.
Hosting is one of the real glories of observant life, hachnasas orchim, the welcoming of guests, and most families would not trade it for anything. It is still worth seeing plainly what the community pours out, week after week, to keep those tables full: the equivalent of catering a Thanksgiving every Friday, and often a second one by Shabbos afternoon.
Five figures a year, one candle-lit table at a time.
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